The label: I’m a sucker for anything remotely mid-century. With its clean colorful lines, Star Trek-y font, and glossed details, this label reminded me of an atomic age Pan-Am travel poster.

Sales of orange wine rose 27 percent in the first half of this year compared with 2019 and 2018, according to Nielsen. Orange wine lovers now even have their own wine club.

The saying illustrates the importance of marketing to the success of winemaking. A good story, a high point score from a critic or a stellar reputation can help sell a wine. But the label comes first.

Intellego Story of Harry 2020 from Swartland in South Africa (#85775, $18.99) feels like orange wine-lite. It’s made with 74% skin-contact Chenin Blanc and 26% Chardonnay.