Since it’s beginning in 2021, Roca Hartford has supported more than 150 women. The staff has tackled tough subjects ranging from physical abuse, sexual assault and people with run-ins with the law.

There's an entourage of 35 traveling sous-chefs — all part of the staff at the Roca brothers' restaurant — with hundreds of suitcases. Each cook brings his or her own lucky spatula or chopsticks.

Roca hasn’t survived for 40 years without dealing with shifting political fortunes, and the loss of one grant won’t kill it. But make no mistake: The sheer callousness of this administration ...