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Wide rice noodles or even Italian spaghetti would both work well. If you stick with udon, be sure to pay attention when cooking the noodles; they quickly go from rock solid to overcooked.

Add the noodles to the salted water and cook, stirring, for 8 minutes. Add the leeks, celery, carrots, thyme, and half the parsley to the simmering stock and cook, partially covered for 8 minutes.

As Sen Udon settles into its new home, which also features a garage door that opens up to the sidewalk, Chen and Kotani are currently experimenting with recipes they’ll eventually debut on the menu.