Twenty years ago this month, Gourmet magazine devoted an entire issue to what was then a rather audacious claim: That London was, as the all-caps cover line declared, “The Best Place to Eat in ...

On their current 1917 Heritage menu, you'll find delicate starters such as a Kiln-roasted Salmon Rillette and Confit Rabbit ...

There might not be a better snack-based triptych in London. Look: a punchy little jalapeño popper gilda, which with a mini martini costs £8; a bean devilled egg at £4; and saltfish beignets ...