Before the Montrose store opened at 8 a.m. sharp, Fong told me, she and everyone else counted down, as though the diurnal operation of a discount grocery chain was New Year’s Eve, or a rocket ...

There are subtle cues that Argus is different from a typical grocery store, most of which stock food from an average of 1,500 miles away. Most farm stops source from within 200 miles, with a ...