But overall, it’s more complicated than labeling a food “good” or “bad,” “healthy or “unhealthy,” Bragagnini says. “I think there’s too much shaming,” she says.

Besides those weeks in June when Portuguese flags flap over Commercial Street, there’s lots of reason to celebrate the cuisine at this small, beloved bakery that was founded in 1936.

Black Restaurant Experience cofounder Shemicia Bowen said it is not just the food, but the art and dancing that thousands of people got a taste of Sunday. “There are about 65 black businesses ...