From techno temples to hedonistic hideouts, anything-goes revelry has been core to Berlin's soul for the past century. But rising rents and rapid gentrification may kill the party.

We love natural wine, and Berlin is one of the great cities for it right now. Day 2. Noon: Discover the city on foot. We had a late start to the day, which began with coffee at the hotel.

Where to stay. Hotel de Rome, a 145-room, five-star hotel that was a bank in the 1880s, has one of the best locations in Berlin: Its windows look directly onto the pink-hued Berlin State Opera.An ...