It might come as a surprise that in this desert paradise, 97.5% of the local school district's students qualify as socioeconomically disadvantaged.

Growing up, these young locals thought Palm Springs was dead. Now, they're reclaiming the low desert as their own with restaurants, bars and cafes that appeal to both visitors and themselves.

Now, driving back to Palm Springs, I find myself turning the idea of connection over in my mind — wondering if, maybe, just maybe, there’s a little magic in the desert after all.

This time, all these years later and in a different area of the state park, I actually made it to the palm trees: not a mirage, but a lively, breezy haven in the warm desert. On my return hike, I ...