Monemvasia, a mighty rock off the Peloponnese’s southeast coast, is Greece’s Gibraltar and, with its ancient churches, castles and cobbled streets, oozes history.

When we arrive, Tammy’s homemade pastitsio ($22) and the moussaka ($26) are sold out (a devastating development, but a convenient excuse to return).

Ah, Greek food. Honestly, I’d go back to Greece just for the food alone—it just might have the best cuisine on the planet. . Mealtimes are always a highlight when traveling, but in Greece ...