Monemvasia, a mighty rock off the Peloponnese’s southeast coast, is Greece’s Gibraltar and, with its ancient churches, castles and cobbled streets, oozes history.

When we arrive, Tammy’s homemade pastitsio ($22) and the moussaka ($26) are sold out (a devastating development, but a convenient excuse to return).

EXCLUSIVE You've been eating out in Greece all wrong! Food experts reveal how to spot a fake Greek salad and why you should avoid restaurants that serve olives with the stones removed.

Mia Stainsby: Exploring the food of Greece. Food columnist Mia Stainsby travels to Greece, eating along the way. Author of the article: By Mia Stainsby. Published Jun 20, 2023.