When I returned from Guatemala, my lupus didn’t vanish. But I proved that “can’t” is just a word. Acatenango didn’t cure me, but it reminded me my journey didn’t end in a hospital bed. It started ...

Tucked away in Humboldt County’s verdant Eel River Valley sits Ferndale, a pocket-sized Victorian wonderland that feels like California’s best-kept secret—a place where ornate architecture and ...