Someday, when I open a bookstore and the big bucks roll in, I’ll display titles in narrow categories, ensuring no one finds anything and has to wander. This summer survey will be my trial run.

Fortifying myself with thick, aromatic Greek coffee and spanakopita — the homemade spinach and feta filo pie that’s a Zagorian staple — I set off from Monodendri early the following morning ...