Unlike many fish markets and restaurants, which order from a list of available fish, ... The Joint: 13718 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks. 818-510-0626. Take action to protect public media!

The restaurant’s name means “take good care of yourself” in one translation, and they do just that, says food critic Merrill Shindler.

Because he doesn’t have space to hang an entire 500-pound Spanish bluefin tuna, Liao dry-ages select cuts of tuna on a rack (with a tray below to catch moisture) in a refrigerated display case.