Poor old aligoté. For decades, this white Burgundian grape variety lurked in the shadows of chardonnay, relegated to those areas considered not quite good enough for the much more famous white grape.

Naturally, the most expensive white grape vineyards in this region grow Chardonnay. The white grape Aligoté had long been considered a forgotten variety overshadowed by Chardonnay. Even during ...

Matters are worse if the fruit is intended for fine wine. At upwards of £5,000 ($6,480) per tonne, the value of an individual grape—grown in the right place at the right time—is enough to ...