So, what is a Tunis Cake? I had no idea, even though I’m from the ‘80s myself. Well, it turns out it’s an alternative to a Christmas cake made from Madeira sponge, with a layer of ...

Tragically, since the 80s the cake has rarely been spotted on supermarket shelves, other than the occasional appearance seasonally. So it’s no surprise that many were excited by its return.

The '80s idea does register strongly with the sole dessert, a riff on the Viennetta ice cream cake, with its plasterwork of icing and crunchy veins of chocolate bits. Speaking of pretense ...