Cook’s notes: To toast the walnut pieces place them on rimmed baking sheet in single layer. Place in 350-degree oven until lightly toasted, 3 to 4 minutes. Watch carefully because nuts burn easily.

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Only one of the appetizers rang the heat meter: the salt and pepper shrimp ($6.95). A heap of shrimp, heads and shells and all, were expertly dry-cooked in the wok with salt, pepper, sliced chiles ...