Ask for a room overlooking the square. Alternatively, the Parador San Marcos (00351 258 820150; www.paradores-spain.com; doubles from £168), a former nunnery and one of Spain’s loveliest paradors.

Over half of all Spain’s cultural artefacts are to be found in Castile and Leon, and the excellent, imaginatively curated exhibition (the theme for 2016 is water) runs until November.