VARANASI, India — On a recent Friday afternoon in this holy city in northern India, scooters, pedestrians and cycle rickshaws jostled for space on a street leading to the city's most famous ...

Hindu pilgrims have long come to Varanasi to die, believing that it will bring salvation. But by wandering aimlessly, Pico Iyer realises this city of death is actually a city of joy.

6. Enduring Tribute by Mark Twain . Mark Twain, the American author, once visited Varanasi during the 19th century, and stated, "Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even ...