Le Grand Café offers several cocktails invented by Field. On his recommendation, I have his Serendipity: a Calvados Coquerel, with clear apple juice, fresh mint and Moët Impérial Champagne.

This was very much the point: Le Grand Mazarin’s interior designer Martin Brudnizki says he was inspired by the idea of the French salon—a place where intellectuals, artists, and other ...