In Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta there are 42 separate communities of Arhuaco, one of the 102 Indigenous groups in Colombia, many of whom live on reservations like Katanzama.

Ana and July live in La Paz, a low-income neighborhood of 15,000 on the hilly outskirts of Santa Marta, a coastal city whose beaches and parks have made it a top tourist destination in Colombia.

The first Spanish settlement established in 1525, Santa Marta is the gateway to Tayrona National Natural Park, a natural reserve with more than 37,000 acres of white-sand beaches with crystalline ...