In 2016, years before Oyster Bay’s current restaurant renaissance, Italian chef Francesco Pecoraro put the historic town on the culinary map with Autentico, an idiosyncratic Italian idyll.

The noodles in this dish are commonly labeled e-fu or yi mein. They are usually available dried and compressed into blocks. Fresh Shanghai noodles or, in a pinch, linguine can be substituted.

And noodles are temperamental depending on the weather, he says. A longer noodle has more consistent thickness than shorter ones, he says. Noodles aren’t flavorful, he says, so that’s why they require ...

Not just Southern Italian, not just from the region of Campania, Vico’s fare draws inspiration from the town of Vico Equense, the hometown of the Fortuna family who owns the place, as well as ...