The “list” price on the 2002 is $143 but one online shop, Saratoga Wines, lists it for a much more reasonable $113.

And you don't have to wait for dessert, says Greg Allen, winemaker at Dolce, the Napa Valley winery in Oakville, Calif., that is devoted to producing a single dessert wine of the same name.

Dessert wines are (naturally) sweeter than dry ones, and are meant to go with creamy, decadent, sugary things. But they can also go with salty things, as well.

These wines are said to be botrytis-affected, and that can be a good thing. The mold destroys the outer layer of the grape skins, allowing moisture to escape, which further concentrates the juices.

Some wines simply don’t get the attention and respect they deserve. Our wine columnist’s top 5 underrated bottles are overachievers when it comes to quality, quaffability and value for money.