Big waves from hurricanes like Irene in 2011 or Superstorm ... The pre-Sandy bottom is relatively smooth – almost like a ...

Millions of people in Queensland and northern New South Wales under warnings to hunker down or evacuate, with flights, trains, buses and schools suspended ...

Which means that every once in a while, maybe every 10 or 20 minutes, a larger wave will wash up on the beach ... from storm systems out over the Pacific and normally when we get a big swell ...