Spread out far below me was the turquoise bay of Agia Anna, where Luc Besson’s classic ... had made the effort to visit this remote island, Amorgos. The magic could well be destroyed, however ...

Agia Anna is much talked about, too, but if you’re headed to that side of the island, far better to spend the day hiking up to Amorgos’s most photographed landmark – the starkly white ...